Tag Archives: London

For the Love of Farmers’ Markets: Borough Market and Beyond

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Nutrition in Today’s World: Sorry, It’s Not Just About You

I can't cook without garlic! Fortunately, it's still available at the winter markets.

Cooking and Eating the P. K. Way incorporates a lot more than traditional nutrition science – meaning, how what we eat impacts our individual health.  To truly Play a Good Knife and Fork also requires considering how what we eat impacts the broader communities in which we live, local and global.  A healthy degree of moderation and occasional indulgence also enter the mix, of course, as food is one of life’s great pleasures. This week’s posts will incorporate all of these sentiments as I write about my weekend in Manhattan, including various food outings and a trip to the Union Square farmers’ market.

Whether home or on holiday, shopping at farmers’ markets is a great way to support local businesses and reduce the food miles of your diet.  It’s also one of the best ways to get the freshest foods onto your plate.  I’ll bet you find things at your local market you can’t find anywhere else, too.  Shopping at Boston’s winter markets has been such a joy this year, yielding surprises like local lobster and tender greenhouse lettuces beyond the expected root vegetables and winter squashes. (Winter salads be bland no more!)

As I began posting a few pictures from the farmers’ market in NYC to kick off the week’s travel pieces, I remembered I hadn’t yet highlighted London’s Borough Market from my visit in October.  A few photographs of the market and its Queen do appear in my piece on Apple Day in London - worth checking out if you missed it – but following below is a slideshow to give you a better sense of the scene if you’ve not been.

Borough Market Slideshow: Produce and Beyond

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Want to Read More on Farmers’ Markets? 

Farmers’ markets come up frequently in my writing, as they are the main place I shop and inspire much of what I cook. A number of pieces below are dedicated to the topic. (And they are far more amusing than this post, I can assure you.) You can also click on the word ”farmers’ markets” in the right-hand column of the home page to find more posts on the subject.

And, of course, try and find a farmers’ market near you. You won’t be sorry you did.

Going Global, Eating Local

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As you know, my diet is built on a foundation of local food (to the extent possible). Not surprisingly, I talk a lot about farmers’ markets and fresh produce, where it all begins. Coming soon, you’ll hear more about why this is so important in a short video filmed at the lively Copley Square farmers’ market here in Boston. Look out for it!

In the meantime, healthy, sustainable eating habits travel with me wherever I go – coupled with a goodly dose of sheer indulgence – so in this post I’m summarizing a few of the outstanding dishes I had when I was recently in London. Meals featured seasonal produce including wild mushrooms and root vegetables; local seafood such as oysters, mackerel, and coley; fabulous British cheeses like stilton; and pints of smooth, local ales.

And all I can say is: Wow.

Fine Seasonal Gastropub Fare

After wandering through Borough Market, we popped into “arguably the cosiest pub in Southwark” for a snack. A combination of classic- and gastropub fare, the food was a delight to the eyes and palate. We started with the mushrooms and stilton cream on rye toast (below) – rich, velvety, and extremely satisfying.

Mushrooms and Stilton on Rye Toast (And a Pint of Ale)

After relaxing a bit we headed back out to do some more browsing, but we liked the food and atmosphere so much we went back to complete our meal. We thoroughly enjoyed the fig, goat cheese, pecan, and roasted squash Wensleydale tart, followed by a chocolate and beetroot brownie with creamy vanilla pod ice cream (both of which we split). I was intrigued by the beet addition: though I didn’t really taste anything beet-y about it, ’twas a great brownie nonetheless, with moist crumb and deep chocolate flavor.

Late Lunch with Local Honey

We pulled a rookie move and thought it would be possible to get a quick bite before heading to the theatre for an early 7.30 curtain for Les Misérables. This was sheer folly, and we should have known better. Europeans don’t rush meals, especially in finer restaurants, and though I was clear about needing to leave promptly at 6.45pm our food came at 6.38.

So much for a relaxing pre-theatre meal.

Which is really too bad, because the food was sensational. “An ardent follower of the ‘field to fork’ movement,” Caxton Grill is a lovely spot. It is beautifully appointed and looked upon our hotel’s gardens, still lush given the warm fall weather. (It was so nice to see deep blue hydrangea and other colorful blooms one last time before next year!) The restaurant prides itself on local cuisine. And they do mean local. Check it out: “Our honey is made by the bees on the roof of St. Ermin’s Hotel, pollinated from flowers in St. James’s Park and Regents Park.”

It was such a pity we needed to scarf down our food! I loathe rushing any meal, especially in restaurants. We tried the “smalls” of smoked haddock chowder, pan fried mackerel with horseradish and roasted beets, and honey-roasted root vegetables. The mackerel in particular was outstanding. We were also thrilled that our meal was preceded by an amuse bouche of phyllo stuffed with goat cheese and tomato confit. Of course, flaky, buttery phyllo could be filled wtih styrofoam and it would still be delicious but goat cheese is even better. And I love being served an amuse bouche in restaurants – it’s always a wonderful surprise, kind of like when someone gives you a present unexpectedly. (The kind you actually want.)

By the way: in case you are not familiar, an “amuse bouche” is a complimentary small dish of the chef’s whim designed to whet your appetite. The literal translation is “amuse [your] mouth.” Which, while accurate, sounds much more lovely in French.

A Modern British Late Night Supper

What a joy when a hotel’s concierge provides a stellar recommendation! We never would have found Hix otherwise, an unbelievable restaurant nestled into the West End a few blocks away from the theatre.

The menu was so local it needed translation by our knowledgeable waiter. Intrigued? This super hip restaurant and its four course meal – I held back – require their own post. Check back soon for more details.

Obligatory Fish and Chips, Locavore Style

Eating fish and chips at least once while in England is a must. And I do mean at least once. On our our first road trip together exploring England, Irelend, and Scotland together in 2004, my husband and I ate fish and chips more times than I could possibly remember. (An aside: V never ate fish before I started cooking it for him; now he loves it. Remember what I’ve been saying about exposure? He even eats oysters on the half shell. And guess what? He’s the one who introduced them to me!)

Though we can certainly find some delicious fish and chips here in New England and elsewhere in the US, it just isn’t the same. One of the biggest differences is that in the UK the fish is generally a full, skin-on fillet. My guess is that they also use better different ale in the beer batter. In tandem, it creates an incomparable fish and chips. Quality can certainly vary across the UK but in general it’s incredibly tasty. (And I have a fairly large sample size.) You may know that many Brits enjoy malt vinegar with their fish and chips, as do Canadians, but tartar sauce is also available.

As I was saying: Quite possibly the best fish and chips I’ve had in England. Ever. And I am so thrilled that now I know exactly where to go for my fix whenever I’m there. This was not the actual Fish!kitchen restaurant, by the way. It was one of the outdoor vendors in Borough Market (near the actual restaurant).

A Look of Bliss Upon Discovering Perfect Fish and Chips.

I’m willing to guess that part of the reason this particular fish and chips was so spectacular, other than its perfectly crisp exterior and incredibly tender interior – i.e, baby, they can cook – was because the fish was delivered early that morning. Now, I had been looking forward to one of my favorite British dishes since arriving in England, but I never expected to stumble across a street food vendor serving up locally prepared fish and chips. I reiterate: Wow. I’ve been thinking about that fish in wonderment all week long.

The voices and choices of the local food movement are growing stronger each year, and the world is better because of it.

Will you join in our crusade?

PS: Lest you think the above statement is a bit over the top, do I need to mention this is from the finale of Les Mis? Then again, perhaps I really am an utter zealot for eating local. Select whichever you think makes me cooler.

P.K. NewbyDr. P. K. Newby is a nutrition scientist and educator with expertise in the prevention of obesity and chronic diseases through diet and the relations between agriculture, food production, and public health. She brings together her passions for food, cooking, science, and sustainability through her writing and videos to help people eat their way towards better health, one delectable bite at a time. If you like what you see here at The Nutrition Doctor is In the Kitchen, please subscribe to my blog from the home page, become a fan on Facebook, follow me on Twitter, check out my food porn on Pinterest, watch my videos on YouTube, and peruse my recipe page for soups, salads, seafood, sweets, and more. Thanks for reading!

Apple Day in London

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“I wish you apple merriment.”

Don’t hear that very often, do you?

The Harvest Queen

In fact, I found these the perfect welcoming words to market-goers at Apple Day in London’s Borough Market this past Sunday, which celebrated the season in royal style with food, song, and cheer. (See Queen, left.)

Surely it can’t be surprising to you that seeking out local markets is a major part of my travels? This is probably something that was instilled in me at a very young age, as frequent family road trips to Canada always included a visit to the massive, multi-floor market in Kitchener-Waterloo where my grandparents lived. (Butter tarts, anyone?) It’s a splendid way to experience local food culture and cuisine. I am grateful to my mother for this early exposure, as it’s been a high point of many vacations.

Markets vary widely in flavor and offering from place to place. The foundation is usually locally prepared foods and/or produce but many also include crafts and artwork. A huge market, the Borough was limited to food and included gorgeous looking fruits and vegetables, some of which were local and organic; savory English pies, pasties, and tarts stuffed with various meats, vegetables, and cheeses; custard and fruit-studded puddings and pastries; and elegantly labeled jars of mustard, honey, preserves, and chutney. A local farm was selling hard cider, both apple and pear, still and sparkling. There was also a surprisingly large number of people actively preparing tantalizing foods on site, such as seared scallops, duck confit, and Indian delicacies alongside massive vats of three different curries. Last – but definitely not least – there was one vendor selling fish and chips at a place called Fish!Kitchen, whose motto was, er, “Proper Fish and Chips.”

(Yeah, I know. But I saw the fish they were preparing and it looked amazing. As it turns out, this may well have been the best fish and chips I’ve had in London. Ever. I’d love to show you a picture, but the thought to photograph occurred only after I had already devoured half.)

What a delight to wander through the market on an unexpectedly warm autumn day, sipping a cold cider and savoring the local sights and sounds!  (A photo montage of the market can be seen here.)

That it was Apple Day was really just the icing on the, um, apple cake. There was a large selection of farm-fresh apples, including native, local, organic, and heirloom varieties. (The Russet I selected was among the best apples I’ve eaten this season.) And hot mulled cider, of course. Many vendors had also prepared special foods for the occasion. Apple parsnip cake, anyone? No? How about apple cake made with olive oil? Need something more familiar? What about apple pie, toffee apple crumble, apple streudel, apple muffins, apple oat cakes, caramel apples, apple brownies, or apple fritters?

(“Do you want the warm vanilla custard sauce with that?” I was asked after finally deciding on the toffee apple crumble. “Oh, yes…,” I replied, longingly.)

Where was I? Right. If you enjoy traveling, you might consider checking out the local markets if you haven’t done so before. No doubt you will enjoy soaking up the atmosphere, but you may also end up sampling some of the best food in the city. If you don’t fancy leaving your own backyard, I imagine the place you call home has something similar where you can celebrate the season with local fare and flair.

And perhaps you just might get inspired to procure some fresh ingredients and cook up something delicious of your own. Or, in this particular case, pick up a few tasty treats for a whimsical trans-Atlantic plane picnic to conclude a fabulous weekend getaway. WAY better than airline food, eh?

Train Journey to London

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I love a good train ride. I frequently travel from Boston to New York and all too often find myself gazing dreamily out the window. A good deal of the trip passes alongside various waterways and fens in Connecticut on one side with the Atlantic on the other. Quite serene.  A fine place to think, and write.

This afternoon’s journey is taking me from Bristol to London. Less than two hours, much of the voyage passes through English countryside, an arboreal vista dotted with farmland and occasional cattle and horses.

After much debating with myself, I sadly tossed yesterday’s leftovers of fish pie and jacket potato instead of bringing them with me for a train snack. (I did mention the potato was the size of a baby’s head, remember?) Alas, my hands were simply too full with luggage and laptop, so I just took a few pieces of fruit with me instead that I had on hand. I bring this up for two reasons. First, if you’ve never been to London before, you may not know that Europeans really don’t do the whole packing-up-leftovers-and-bringing-them-home thing. They frown upon it, really, and in France find it rather gauche. (On this same note, it’s only in the past decade or so that you can do the whole take-out thing, too, which the Brits call “take-away.” For example: “I’ll have a coffee take-away, please.”)  It occurs now that the “to-go” practice perhaps evolved as an American thing due to massive portions? I’m not sure, but I bear the chagrin regardless and take leftover restaurant food home with me in Europe, even the smallest of remains, both to avoid waste and enjoy a subsequent meal or snack.

I’d like to tell you that the banana I had on the train instead was as gratifyng as the leftover fish pie would have been. Yeah, okay. Sure.

I will arrive in London rather shortly, and by the time I get to the hotel and get settled it will be almost 4 pm. That is a magical bewitching hour when on holiday in London, which means the choice between either late afternoon tea and scones or an early evening out to the pub.

With a little luck, this will be the hardest decision I’ll have to make all day.

P.K. NewbyDr. P. K. Newby is a nutrition scientist and educator with expertise in the prevention of obesity and chronic diseases through diet and the relations between agriculture, food production, and public health. She brings together her passions for food, cooking, science, and sustainability through her writing and videos to help people eat their way towards better health, one delectable bite at a time. If you like what you see here at The Nutrition Doctor is In the Kitchen, please subscribe to my blog from the home page, become a fan on Facebook, follow me on Twitter, check out my food porn on Pinterest, watch my videos on YouTube, and peruse my recipe page for soups, salads, seafood, sweets, and more. Thanks for reading!