Category Archives: Beer

Irish Recollections (May Include Year-old Soda Bread)

Posted on by
10

Bussing Tables in an Irish Pub: My First Restaurant Job

Still looking and tasting great, one year later!

At the tender age of 15 I began my first job at an Irish pub named Finn MacCool’s, which apparently is named after a giant, semimythical character from an ancient Gaelic legend (semimythical?). My first restaurant job of many, I bussed tables and waitressed throughout high school and on holidays during college. I have many, many stories to tell of those times, but suffice to say that it was there I developed a love of Irish brown and soda breads. And crispy, beer-battered fish and chips, I might add – my regular midnight dinner each Saturday to fuel the shift that lasted until 3am.

Holiday Cooking Plans Gone Awry

Now, most serious foodies and cooks take advantage of any situation to celebrate with seasonal food and drink, especially on a holiday. However, work and new car shopping beckoned today, so my plan of cooking and enjoying traditional Irish fare had to be simplified to its essence. And by that I mean beer, which may or may not be accompanied by a shot of neat Irish whiskey later this evening. (Evidently it’s traditional, or so I’ve gleaned from a recent NYT article titled “Sod off, scotch.”) I’m currently enjoying a Guinness while fondly remembering the many fine meals and beers that were consumed on our 2004 roadtrip throughout England, Scotland, and Ireland. 

That said, I did make one thing, which was whole wheat Irish soda bread with raisins. Very, very delicious! You’ve heard me talk about white whole wheat flour and how it’s a wonderful substitute in many baked goods. (I challenge you to note a difference in brownies, for example, or pumpkin whoopie pies.)  My recipe perfectly melds the flavors of Irish soda and brown breads and the nuttiness of the white whole wheat works really well. How I would love to share the recipe with you! Alas, I can not.

Frozen Food to the Rescue!

Yeah, um, I actually made this bread last St. Patrick’s Day, and stored half in the freezer. It’s amazing how fast 365 days go by, isn’t it? I had no idea whether the loaf would be even remotely edible one year hence, but it really did taste the same (as I recall, anyway) and paired beautifully with my morning coffee. Unfortunately, I don’t remember exactly how I made it. How useless am I? (Don’t answer that.) I do know it was a hybrid of two recipes from Bon Appétit, one for brown soda bread and one for Irish soda bread (these are the closest approximations I could find) and that I substituted white whole wheat flour. I really need to get better about recording recipes that I create, I know, both for my own cooking purposes as well as to share with you.

The Freezer is Your Friend (But Remember What You Put In There and When)

While I’m fairly embarrassed to admit to you I’m consuming – nay loving - year-old soda bread, I have a few other points to make related to cooking and eating that come to mind. First, it’s probably obvious that generally things should not remain in the freezer for nearly that long, as it can impact taste and, in some cases, food safety. This was a very unusual circumstance and I tell you this story more for humor value than anything else. Sampling the bread was mainly an experiment, and I was fully prepared to toss last year’s loaf. I consider myself very, very lucky it was edible (luck of the Irish…soda bread?) and clearly it should have been eaten many months ago. I knew it was there, I just never got around to it. (Do note that it was wrapped extremely well, in plastic wrap, tin foil, and a heavy plastic bag, which no doubt preserved its freshness and flavor.)

That having been said, you all know that the freezer is my best friend, where soups, stews, sauces, and stocks await to assist me in eating healthfully when time is limited.  Baked goods like cookies, cakes, or sweet breads can also be frozen. There are two people in our home, you see, and a major reason I bake infrequently is because it tends to encourage over-consumption in our world. (I want so badly to make the Ranting Chef’s chocolate stout bundt cake! Talk about down-right dangerous. That baby would be tonight’s dinner-for-two. I’m barely kidding.) Best not to keep such things on hand, so when I do bake into the freezer things go for another time. Lots of treats keep well, so do consider storing extra portions or bring leftovers to work to share with friends and colleagues. Perhaps consider joining your local food swap group, if you have one like we do here in Boston.

Speaking of Ireland…

This story sounded better in my head (she says, munching on her fourth second piece of soda bread and sipping her third second Guinness). Ah, well. Perhaps a few photos from our trip to the Emerald Isle will make up for it?

Our trip through counties Cork and Kerry took us along the water’s edge with its many bucolic views and breathtaking cliffs.

We saw a LOT of sheep. In Ireland, they have a unique species that has a single bright blue spot.

Castle ruins were a common sight.

Yup, there are gorgeous beaches in Ireland, too. But look closely at the weird beachgoers.

We stumbled across the remains of many a stone fort, which are pretty cool.

They don’t call it the “Emerald Isle” for nothing.

Another castle, this time including cattle.

A park in Dublin. Know who this is? (Hint: obligatory theater reference)

PS. I wrote this post on St. Patrick’s Day, you’ll note, but I hope you had a great holiday weekend. If you had a little too much fun and find yourself struggling this Monday morning, check out this New Yorker article.

Also—seriously—don’t eat year-old Irish soda bread.

P.K. NewbyDr. P. K. Newby is a nutrition scientist and educator with expertise in the prevention of obesity and chronic diseases through diet and the relations between agriculture, food production, and public health. She brings together her passions for food, cooking, science, and sustainability through her writing and videos to help people eat their way towards better health, one delectable bite at a time. If you like what you see here at The Nutrition Doctor is In the Kitchen, please subscribe to my blog from the home page, become a fan on Facebook, follow me on Twitter, check out my food porn on Pinterest, watch my cooking videos on YouTube, and peruse my recipe page for soups, salads, seafood, sweets, and more. Thanks for reading!

Going Global, Eating Local

Posted on by
1

As you know, my diet is built on a foundation of local food (to the extent possible). Not surprisingly, I talk a lot about farmers’ markets and fresh produce, where it all begins. Coming soon, you’ll hear more about why this is so important in a short video filmed at the lively Copley Square farmers’ market here in Boston. Look out for it!

In the meantime, healthy, sustainable eating habits travel with me wherever I go – coupled with a goodly dose of sheer indulgence – so in this post I’m summarizing a few of the outstanding dishes I had when I was recently in London. Meals featured seasonal produce including wild mushrooms and root vegetables; local seafood such as oysters, mackerel, and coley; fabulous British cheeses like stilton; and pints of smooth, local ales.

And all I can say is: Wow.

Fine Seasonal Gastropub Fare

After wandering through Borough Market, we popped into “arguably the cosiest pub in Southwark” for a snack. A combination of classic- and gastropub fare, the food was a delight to the eyes and palate. We started with the mushrooms and stilton cream on rye toast (below) – rich, velvety, and extremely satisfying.

Mushrooms and Stilton on Rye Toast (And a Pint of Ale)

After relaxing a bit we headed back out to do some more browsing, but we liked the food and atmosphere so much we went back to complete our meal. We thoroughly enjoyed the fig, goat cheese, pecan, and roasted squash Wensleydale tart, followed by a chocolate and beetroot brownie with creamy vanilla pod ice cream (both of which we split). I was intrigued by the beet addition: though I didn’t really taste anything beet-y about it, ’twas a great brownie nonetheless, with moist crumb and deep chocolate flavor.

Late Lunch with Local Honey

We pulled a rookie move and thought it would be possible to get a quick bite before heading to the theatre for an early 7.30 curtain for Les Misérables. This was sheer folly, and we should have known better. Europeans don’t rush meals, especially in finer restaurants, and though I was clear about needing to leave promptly at 6.45pm our food came at 6.38.

So much for a relaxing pre-theatre meal.

Which is really too bad, because the food was sensational. “An ardent follower of the ‘field to fork’ movement,” Caxton Grill is a lovely spot. It is beautifully appointed and looked upon our hotel’s gardens, still lush given the warm fall weather. (It was so nice to see deep blue hydrangea and other colorful blooms one last time before next year!) The restaurant prides itself on local cuisine. And they do mean local. Check it out: “Our honey is made by the bees on the roof of St. Ermin’s Hotel, pollinated from flowers in St. James’s Park and Regents Park.”

It was such a pity we needed to scarf down our food! I loathe rushing any meal, especially in restaurants. We tried the “smalls” of smoked haddock chowder, pan fried mackerel with horseradish and roasted beets, and honey-roasted root vegetables. The mackerel in particular was outstanding. We were also thrilled that our meal was preceded by an amuse bouche of phyllo stuffed with goat cheese and tomato confit. Of course, flaky, buttery phyllo could be filled wtih styrofoam and it would still be delicious but goat cheese is even better. And I love being served an amuse bouche in restaurants – it’s always a wonderful surprise, kind of like when someone gives you a present unexpectedly. (The kind you actually want.)

By the way: in case you are not familiar, an “amuse bouche” is a complimentary small dish of the chef’s whim designed to whet your appetite. The literal translation is “amuse [your] mouth.” Which, while accurate, sounds much more lovely in French.

A Modern British Late Night Supper

What a joy when a hotel’s concierge provides a stellar recommendation! We never would have found Hix otherwise, an unbelievable restaurant nestled into the West End a few blocks away from the theatre.

The menu was so local it needed translation by our knowledgeable waiter. Intrigued? This super hip restaurant and its four course meal – I held back – require their own post. Check back soon for more details.

Obligatory Fish and Chips, Locavore Style

Eating fish and chips at least once while in England is a must. And I do mean at least once. On our our first road trip together exploring England, Irelend, and Scotland together in 2004, my husband and I ate fish and chips more times than I could possibly remember. (An aside: V never ate fish before I started cooking it for him; now he loves it. Remember what I’ve been saying about exposure? He even eats oysters on the half shell. And guess what? He’s the one who introduced them to me!)

Though we can certainly find some delicious fish and chips here in New England and elsewhere in the US, it just isn’t the same. One of the biggest differences is that in the UK the fish is generally a full, skin-on fillet. My guess is that they also use better different ale in the beer batter. In tandem, it creates an incomparable fish and chips. Quality can certainly vary across the UK but in general it’s incredibly tasty. (And I have a fairly large sample size.) You may know that many Brits enjoy malt vinegar with their fish and chips, as do Canadians, but tartar sauce is also available.

As I was saying: Quite possibly the best fish and chips I’ve had in England. Ever. And I am so thrilled that now I know exactly where to go for my fix whenever I’m there. This was not the actual Fish!kitchen restaurant, by the way. It was one of the outdoor vendors in Borough Market (near the actual restaurant).

A Look of Bliss Upon Discovering Perfect Fish and Chips.

I’m willing to guess that part of the reason this particular fish and chips was so spectacular, other than its perfectly crisp exterior and incredibly tender interior – i.e, baby, they can cook – was because the fish was delivered early that morning. Now, I had been looking forward to one of my favorite British dishes since arriving in England, but I never expected to stumble across a street food vendor serving up locally prepared fish and chips. I reiterate: Wow. I’ve been thinking about that fish in wonderment all week long.

The voices and choices of the local food movement are growing stronger each year, and the world is better because of it.

Will you join in our crusade?

PS: Lest you think the above statement is a bit over the top, do I need to mention this is from the finale of Les Mis? Then again, perhaps I really am an utter zealot for eating local. Select whichever you think makes me cooler.

P.K. NewbyDr. P. K. Newby is a nutrition scientist and educator with expertise in the prevention of obesity and chronic diseases through diet and the relations between agriculture, food production, and public health. She brings together her passions for food, cooking, science, and sustainability through her writing and videos to help people eat their way towards better health, one delectable bite at a time. If you like what you see here at The Nutrition Doctor is In the Kitchen, please subscribe to my blog from the home page, become a fan on Facebook, follow me on Twitter, check out my food porn on Pinterest, watch my videos on YouTube, and peruse my recipe page for soups, salads, seafood, sweets, and more. Thanks for reading!

Winding Down at the Local Pub(s)

Posted on by
Reply

As the years go by, I have grown to truly savor chance meetings with locals and fellow wanderlusts. It is indeed a unique pleasure of traveling. I am grateful to countless many for friendly banter and shared laughs over the years, if only for an hour or evening. And even better when shared over a pint! Of course, such meetings need not happen in pub. Wherever they occur, an indelible mark stamps the journey in time and space.

It was just a typical day at the pub, I imagine, to celebrate nothing other than the glorious end of the workday: relaxing with old friends, meeting new ones, and simply seeing where the night takes you.

There are two pubs in particular that I enjoy in Bristol, The Victoria and Highbury Vaults. (Neither have a webpage.) Both serve “real ale” and Highbury Vaults serves classic pub fare. I enjoyed the evening with a fellow researcher and colleague I had just met, now a friend. When we discussed where to dine, I said, “Well, I do have a particular pub in mind … is that okay with you?” She replied, “Of course. I’m Australian!”

Off we headed, happily. I had actually discovered this particular pub the first time I was in Bristol quite by accident when I was out looking for soap, of all things. (The guesthouse at which I was staying did not have soap. Don’t ask.) Who cares about soap when you’ve discovered such a gem?

Authentic pubs are unusual in character, and some go back centuries (literally). I have a broad palate when it comes to most things gastronomical, including ale, so I sampled several in 1/2 pint portions. All were great. The real thing; they are in fact referred to as “real ale.” I am yearning to share more information on pubs and ales, but such requires a bit more time so it will have to wait a few more days.

For dinner we shared two dishes. The fish pie included tender haddock mixed with green peas and carrots and topped with mashed potatoes and melted cheddar. I certainly also had to have a “jacket potato” while in the UK. Jacket potatoes are russet potatoes as big as your head stuffed with such things as tuna and corn, chili, baked beans, or cheese. We selected baked beans and cheese.

(It’s not really the size of your head. A baby’s head, perhaps.)

As I said: down-to-earth, comforting pub food. The haddock was lovely, a sort of fisherman’s shepherd’s pie. Honestly, what’s not to like about a creamy fish stew topped with mashed potatoes and melted cheddar cheese? And I’m sure many of you have had a stuffed potato at some point in your life. This isn’t much different, but it tends to come with fewer toppings and no sour cream (in a good way, in my view). I love baked potatoes, though it’s not something I eat all that frequently. Piled with baked beans and melted cheddar is quite tasty, and a good way to go for sure.

The fish pie was accompanied by a crisp salad of mixed greens, three colors of peppers, red onions, cherry tomatoes, kidney and Great northern white beans, and corn. Rather healthful, really -to balance out the cheesy goodness of the entrées, perhaps? Corn is a popular thing to add to salads in Europe, in case you are wondering, and it’s something I also do in the summer for some of my salads. Yum. (You all know how I feel about corn, now most definitely out of season, she says with a tear.)

No dessert this time around, though something called chocolate puddle cake sounded divine.

Jolly good, indeed.

No, I didn’t really say that—as I mentioned yesterday—but one of the two charming gentlemen I met at The Victoria Pub earlier that evening did.

And I rather agree.

P.K. NewbyDr. P. K. Newby is a nutrition scientist and educator with expertise in the prevention of obesity and chronic diseases through diet and the relations between agriculture, food production, and public health. She brings together her passions for food, cooking, science, and sustainability through her writing and videos to help people eat their way towards better health, one delectable bite at a time. If you like what you see here at The Nutrition Doctor is In the Kitchen, please subscribe to my blog from the home page, become a fan on Facebook, follow me on Twitter, check out my food porn on Pinterest, watch my videos on YouTube, and peruse my recipe page for soups, salads, seafood, sweets, and more. Thanks for reading!

Away-from-home Eating: Pleasures and Perils

Posted on by
7

Pleasures, sure; that one’s obvious. But perhaps “perils” is too strong a word? Maybe “pitfalls”? Well, you get the point. Read on. I’ll elaborate.

The Bristol Cathedral (Photo by Roger Harper)

A Brief Jaunt to the UK

I’m currently at the University of Bristol in Southwest England for a scientific conference, after which I’ll be heading to London to meet my husband for a few days of fun. So, after last week’s somewhat esoteric and perhaps slightly less-than-exciting focus on vegetable stock and vegetable juice, this week I’ll be writing about food from across the pond. (For those of you that haven’t made a trip across the Atlantic, it’s just about the same distance as flying across the US, six hours or so.) I’ll also share some of my tips on good food habits while traveling, whether for business or pleasure. I first explored this theme in brief in a blog post when I was in Australia in June, as it comes up whenever I embark on a journey.

Food in the UK used to be ill-regarded. In fact, a colleague just asked me this very evening, “What do you think about British food?”

“Jolly good,” I replied.

(No, I didn’t really say that. Come on.)

Actually, the days of British food sucking—excuse me, I mean, being less than fabulous—are long gone. There is fantastic international fare to be enjoyed in London as well as other parts of England. Indian food in particular is outstanding, and many superb gastropubs have sprung up in the past decade or so. Not to mention the comforting, down-to-earth, old-fashioned British pub fare like cask ale, fish and chips, and sticky toffee pudding. I’ll be writing about all of this and more as the as the week unfolds, so stay tuned.

Ah, Plane Food

Maybe perils wasn’t too strong a word, after all…

Before leaving for a trip, I always begin by thinking through food for the week and planning accordingly. Why, you ask? First, it is very easy to overeat when traveling, which can lead to weight gain; this is especially true if fitness schedules are also on hold. Second, I’m often out and about and don’t always want to stop for meals (other than dinner). Also, I hate eating crappy food. Like, say, plane food.

Way better than plane food, no?

For example, last night I took a red eye from Boston to London. Rather than eat bad plane food at 1am to simply pass the time, I made a wonderful dinner at home before leaving for the airport. I really, really wanted to get that on tape for you, as it was a pretty amazing meal, but things were a bit too hectic. I prepared seared blue fish with sautéed shiitake mushrooms and braised beet and radish greens served with gremolata and olive tapenade. I also had left over pastry from last week’s French apple tart so made a mini tart for two. Having a nice meal at home before leaving was very important to avoid eating food that was low in taste and nutritional value and high in calories. As well, I wanted to eat a healthy, home cooked meal because I’ll be away for an entire week. As much as I love dining out, I do miss my own dinners where I can control the ingredients and portions. (I know, you’re shocked.) And, um, it’s often better.

I also passed on the plane’s morning breakfast that was served 3 hours after they had served dinner (!). Did I mention it was 4am EST? Skipping plane meals are good places to avoid ingesting extra calories that are barely palatable. Save your appetite for the destination!

I do travel with my own snack food in case I get hungry – or trapped on the plane, for that matter. I generally bring a bag of trail mix, which consisted of almonds, golden raisins, dried cranberries, and pistachios this time around although the particular combination varies with what I have on hand. Use what you like! Eat sparingly, though: trail mix is healthy in small doses but quite energy-dense. I also travel with fresh fruit. I stuck the banana from the breakfast plane meal in my bag because I still had a bunch of hours left before reaching my final destination.

My First Dinner Abroad

When I finally arrived in Bristol and got myself settled, I headed out for a light dinner. I was thrilled with my salad of tuna and poached egg with roasted saffron potatoes, red peppers, and Kalamata olives atop a bed of rocket (another word for arugula, a peppery herbaceous salad green). I’m annoyed I didn’t get a photo of the meal to show you, as it was quite lovely.

I won’t lie: I was temped by some of the classic pub fare on the menu as I haven’t been to the UK for a few years. Nevertheless, I decided to eat lightly considering it’s the first of seven dinners out and there will be plenty of larger meals this week. And what a delightful and hearty salad it was! I also enjoyed a pint (or two) of Butcombe’s bitter, a traditional cask ale. This gained me respect at the bar, I might add. Cask ales are among the major gustatory reasons to visit England, in my view. That, and the fish and chips. No, it’s really not the same in the States, believe me. Check back later this week on why.

PS: For those interested, I will post the final piece to wrap up the veggie juice nutritional issue very soon. I know, you can’t contain your excitement. In the meantime, I will say this: I made a bloody mary on Sunday with store bought veggie juice and it was not remotely comparable to my homemade version. This underscores one of the big problems with making everything yourself … once you realize how much better the real thing is when made from scratch with farm-fresh ingredients, it’s very hard to go back!

P.K. NewbyDr. P. K. Newby is a nutrition scientist and educator with expertise in the prevention of obesity and chronic diseases through diet and the relations between agriculture, food production, and public health. She brings together her passions for food, cooking, science, and sustainability through her writing and videos to help people eat their way towards better health, one delectable bite at a time. If you like what you see here at The Nutrition Doctor is In the Kitchen, please subscribe to my blog from the home page, become a fan on Facebook, follow me on Twitter, check out my food porn on Pinterest, watch my videos on YouTube, and peruse my recipe page for soups, salads, seafood, sweets, and more. Thanks for reading!